Phuket, The Lost Days

Getting to the Phuket hostel by taxi was easy enough. As was finding our way around, the hostel is in a fantastic location right in the heart of the most touristy area, Patong. I would normally have thought of that as a bad thing but it was just so easy finding excellent bars, restaurants and clubs that none of us cared. Another bonus was that we were less than a 10 minute walk from the beach. After getting our bearings on the first day and negotiating a great deal for our tours (one of them was for a day of whitewater rafting then elephant trekking in the jungle and the other was for a day of island hopping), we headed to a pub for a drink. After unwinding a little we walked to the beach for sunset. We had a good view but missed the actual sunset, it was still very nice though.

The next day for the first tour, almost everyone else in our group did not speak English. It was ok though because we still had a great time. The weather was fantastic (one of the only days during our stay that it wasn’t rained out), and we were off to a good start with the monkey cave, well more of a monkey playground really, the cave looked too shit to warrant paying the entry fee. The monkeys were entertaining though.

Next up was a half an hour drive to the river for whitewater rafting. The guys were really excited when we got there and started gearing up but I was a bit sceptical about how good it would be because of the handful of photos I’d seen. I was right to be sceptical. It was a fun experience because I was with the guys and everything and they absolutely loved it but it was nothing compared to last year when Jill and I whitewater rafted in Zambia on one of the best rafting rivers in the world. This river was almost still in comparison, it was much slower, narrower, shorter and less exciting. The rapids were weak sauce.

There were some close calls where we almost fell out of the raft but the foot straps in there near enough guaranteed that we wouldn’t (the raft in Zambia didn’t have them). If we had fallen in it would not have been fun though. Since the river was significantly narrower than the Zambezi in Zambia (I’d estimate it was less than 20% of the width), if one of us did actually fall out, it was much more likely that we’d go head first into one of the many rocks there. On the plus side, at least there were no crocodiles in the river like there were in Zambia!

The group split into two for the next part. The first group stayed for lunch and the second (of which we were a part) left to do the elephant trekking. It was a very strange feeling setting foot on an elephant. At first the ride was very sedate and relaxing (possibly even a little boring) but it quickly picked up when we started going up some of the steeper gradients in the jungle. We (Sundip and I on one, Rocky and Raj were on another one), were sitting in a seat for two but after short while, the elephant handler hopped off to take pictures of us and offered one of us a chance to “drive”. Sundip didn’t seem keen so I said yes almost straight away. It was so strange sitting on that elephant’s neck as it was walking. With every step it took I could feel its huge shoulder blades moving underneath me and as I had my hands on its head to steady myself, I could feel how rough its hair was, it was like moving your hands over the bristles of a tough, outdoor broom. I’m very glad I made every effort to steady myself up there, I was a long way from the ground and it felt like I was going to fall off with almost every step. It was especially nerve racking on the steep climbs and descents. There was a point during the trek where the elephant (with both me and Sundip still on his back) went into the river for a brief walk, it didn’t seem like it at the time but he was supposed to go that way. I was also reminded of a story my friend Avtar once told me. He was on elephant back in India when the elephant decided to go cool off in some water. Shortly after entering the water, the elephant took a huge gulp of water and sprayed it backwards (directly at Avtar) with its trunk. It sent Avtar flying and left him with a massive bruise all the way across his chest. Nothing like that happened to me but the thought was not a pleasant one! I knew elephants are huge having seen them up close but each footprint this elephant was leaving in the jungle mud was just massive, there was so much water in the elephant prints that had been left there previously, it was ridiculous.

After the trek, we had the chance to feed the elephants bananas. Rocky decided to do it and the elephants ate those bananas like there was no tomorrow! I could tell that the elephants were being well treated, otherwise I might have thought they were underfed. They must just really love bananas. Who knew?

It wasn’t just the elephant lunch that was (apparently) tasty, the one they provided for us was too.

After that we were nicely energised for our on-foot jungle trek. In the end, it wasn’t really much of a trek, in this case it was all about the destination, not the journey. At the end of the trail we reached an amazing waterfall. The waterfall itself was very nice but it was the pool of water it fed that was really interesting. The pool was quite deep near the waterfall itself but got shallow very quickly as you moved away from it. There were some rocks and trees to the right that could be climbed relatively easily and since the pool was so deep, the only logical (and clearly sane) thing to do was to climb said rocks, the high point of which was maybe 4 metres, and then jump into the pool. We climbed and we jumped. It was brilliant, I went back for another go.

The 2 hour journey back to the hostel went quickly and so did the time we spent at the hostel before heading out. It was going to be another big night but one of us wouldn’t be coming. Sundip wasn’t feeling well so told us fairly early on in the night that he couldn’t make it out. We made sure he was ok then set off.

There are SO MANY bars and clubs on the main road in Patong, with everywhere I’ve been I haven’t seen a higher concentration of them on a single street anywhere. The road isn’t very long, it takes maybe 5 minutes to walk down it but it must have had at least 200 different places to drink on it, and loads of clubs, restaurants, dodgy massage parlours and tourist booths as well. Our first stop for the night was one of the many bars with Thai women dancing on the bar itself. After a couple of drinks, some of the women that are up there dancing step down to play games like Yahtzee and Connect4 with the people drinking there. It was a little weird, we didn’t stay long. The next bar was a little more interesting. There was torrential rain outside by this point of the night; everyone had taken cover inside the bars and clubs. Our bar was cool though because it was on the second story but it was still open so we could see outside without getting wet. There were a bunch of (obviously drunk) people outside dancing in the rain. After we got bored we went to what would be our final stop for the night. It was only maybe 1 or 2 so we were thinking we’d move on after a little while but it was just so much fun that we stayed the whole night.

The whole next day was more or less wasted and pretty much the only thing we did before dinner was go to Sweet Lemongrass Massage. It came highly recommended on Trip Advisor so we knew there wouldn’t be any funny business going on. Trip Advisor was right, the massage was excellent and it was Rocky’s favourite of all of Thailand, though his experience was probably a little soured because of the fact that he lost his phone on the way back to the hostel. I really liked my massage too but I still rate the two hour one I had in Bangkok as possibly the best one I’ve ever had. Raj enjoyed his too but he wasn’t particularly vocal about it. Sundip didn’t come and it was during dinner that he told us he didn’t want to go on the island hopping tour we’d booked for the next day either, this was despite the fact that he’d already paid his share.

I’ve written too much already so I have to wrap this up but Sundip can probably be glad he didn’t come, he definitely would have thrown up on that boat or worse (use your imagination) but I will say despite the seriously heavy rain we had that day, the beaches were incredible, probably the nicest I’ve seen. The towering rock structures in the water were close enough to make the view amazing but not so close that they made swimming in the sea unsafe. They were covered with lush, green vegetation and surrounded by some of the bluest water I’d ever seen. On the beach itself, the sand underfoot was the softest I’d ever felt, it almost didn’t feel like sand, it was more like I was walking on mashed potatoes or something. (I realise that doesn’t sound particularly pleasant but it felt great). Snorkeling was very cool too, much better than Langkawi because the water was so much deeper. I think that experience has convinced me to do some scuba dives here too. I might write a separate post if I end up doing that.

Phuket had a few more big nights and a lot more wasted time, what can I say, 26 year olds don’t recover as quickly as university students, but what it really gave me was a lesson about myself. I was sad to see my best friends go but not as sad as I should have been. I couldn’t have changed so much on this trip that I’m not even upset to say goodbye to the only piece of home I’ve had in a month, right? I must have. It seems that even at 26, nothing is set and a catalyst for personality change can be something as small as a few weeks away from home.

Top: Waterfall Jump!; Above: Bangla Road, main street in Patong

One thought on “Phuket, The Lost Days

  1. You couldn't help but mention the bloody Zambezi river, could you? I dont think it was a bad thing you weren't as sad as you expected when we left, it had only been a month since leaving home.

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