Agnes Water to Byron Bay

Since we are so behind in our post writing (we’re already in New Zealand!), we decided to do two picture posts to get all caught up. Our apologies for being behind, but the holiday season has been quite busy!

After leaving Rockhampton from Myella, we took the bus down to the town of 1770. Not surprisingly, the town was named after the year it was discovered by Captain Cook, the first English explorer to claim Australia. 1770 was a very small town with only a couple hundred residents, but our hostel there was fabulous. Our plan in 1770 had been to go scuba diving, but Jaz started feeling sick when we got there, and I didn’t want to book anything, because underwater is not the best place to be when you’re sick. So by the time he decided it’d be ok the next day, there were no spaces available on the boat. This ended up working out well though, because we spent the day relaxing before doing a sea kayaking adventure.

The kayaking was fun, but about average, until the guide informed us that we could do surf kayaking. I hadn’t heard of this before, and when he told us that everyone always fell out of their kayak, I thought Jaz and I would certainly not. Three times into the water later, we had caught several big waves, and headed back to watch the sunset.

Leaving 1770, we went on to Hervey Bay, where we were only staying as a jumping point to go to Fraser Island. Fraser Island is the biggest sand island in the world, and the only roads on the island are made of sand, so you have to have four-wheel drive vehicle. Seeing as how neither Jaz nor I know how to drive a four-wheel drive, and I didn’t really want to get stuck in sand, we opted to do a one-day tour of the island. I was quite glad too when I saw what was considered a freeway on the island – with a speed limit of 80 kph!

We had a fabulous guide who informed us that he had taken the most tours onto Fraser Island out of anyone, and had even written the Queensland government’s rules and regulations for sand driving. So while he was waving his hands in the air and turning in his seat while driving, we still felt relatively safe. The day tour managed to take us to all the popular spots on the island, including the Maheno shipwreck.

Champagne Pools

Indian Head

A puppy dingo, don’t worry, he isn’t ill, their ribs are supposed to show like that!

Fraser Island was used for logging back in the early 1900s, and there are still many heavily wooded areas on the island, including trees that take 11 people to encircle.

Lake McKenzie, a beautifully clear inland freshwater lake, made up entirely of rainwater. It tasted just like bottled water.

After Hervey Bay, we headed off for Noosa, where we really only stopped to break up the bus journey to Brisbane. We did manage to fit in a lovely walk along the beach into the national park to catch another sunset.

Stopping in Brisbane, we had the happy chance to be able to meet up Jo, who we had met previously on our trip in Africa. Jo and her boyfriend Kieren graciously offered to let us stay with them, and Kieren even spent the day with us showing us a lookout point above Brisbane.

Our stop south of Brisbane was Byron Bay, where we stayed in perhaps the worst hostel ever. Our room had a party in it when we tried to go to bed which continued until well past 3 in the morning. Thankfully we only stayed one night there, and just enjoyed our day walking along the beach.

Working on a Farm

When I first started planning our trip to Australia I saw something about staying on a working farm, it was something I thought it’d be a ton of fun, like a dude ranch in the Southwest. Luckily, staying at Myella Farm fit into our schedule, so I booked three days for us there. Our overnight bus into Rockhampton arrived late, as we have come to expect from Greyhound Australia, so Shane, the guy from Myella who came to pick us up, and all the other people arriving for the day had to wait almost 2 hours for us. No one complained though, and once we got there, we headed off on the one and a half hour drive to Myella. Once we got to the farm we realized that being late just meant we got to get on the horses right away. We quickly ate breakfast, grabbed some farm clothes and boots, and went up to the stables, where the horses were already saddled for us. Shane gave us a quick lesson for the beginners, and then we got right up on our horses for our ride for the day. On the first day, I got to ride McCafferty, who was a giant slow poke. I had to give him at least 5 kicks before he even started walking. And his walking was more like plod. But it was still fun to be horseback riding,  it was even more fun for me because I’m used to trail riding, and at Myella we got to ride wherever we wanted as long as we were going in the right general direction.

Myella is located on 2600 acres, which compared to the surrounding farms, is quite small. They raise only 400 beef cattle, and then they have other cattle that they charge for farmers to raise on their property, but otherwise the land is wide open. On our first day, we rode out to one of the paddocks to count cattle, because they were some of the cattle being raised on the property, and the owner was arriving in the next couple days to pick them up. Apparently one of their neighbors on the farm has been stealing cattle but no one can catch him doing it, so Trevor (our guide once we started riding) was trying to keep a close count on the numbers. We rode for about two hours and then headed back for lunch. In the afternoon, they did a motorbike lesson, but I was too tired from our overnight bus so I took a nap in the hammock while the rest of the group rode the bikes. (It turned out the people who could ride the motorbikes also had to use them to round up the horses in the mornings.) Later on in the afternoon, we got to milk cows! Somehow I had to be the first one of the group to try it, and I have to say, I’m not very good at it. It feels quite weird to be doing. Trevor gave everyone a chance to try drinking the milk straight from the udder, which Jaz did, and said it tasted good. After that, we had a chance to freshen up, and then dinnertime, which I must say was quite tasty. I’m always impressed by people who can cook for large quantities of people and still make interesting and appetizing dishes. Myella also has a couple of resident birds, two rescued pink cockatoos, Pink Floyd and Juliet, and a poor naked yellow cockatoo, Harry Belafonte. The rescued birds were both hit by cars, and Juliet just arrived at the farm after having surgery to remove her wing, which she continually made unhappy noises about. It was a little like having a 2 year old child around. Harry had some kind of disease where his feathers fall out and his beak grows too long, so his lifespan is only 8 to 10 years instead of the usual 80 years. All of them could talk, so they were quite amusing to have around.

Around 1 in the morning, I was woken up by Jaz, who insisted I needed to get up for some special surprise. I didn’t really want to get up, but I changed into my farm clothes to go outside. Once outside, Jaz told me that there was a meteor shower happening that night (and the night before as well but we were on the bus), and that its peak activity would be between 1 and 2 in the morning. We wandered away from the main house a bit to try and get away from the lights to see the night sky, but the moon was exceptionally bright, so there weren’t many stars on display. We lay down on the grass down the road a bit and set our gaze upon the sky for meteors. We saw at least 20 meteors before deciding it was time to go back inside. That’s when Jaz got down on one knee and proposed!

After calling a few people in the morning to share the news, I ended up being the last one to eat breakfast; Jaz and the other boys went off to corral the horses on their motorbikes. Lyn, the manager at Myella, was the only one still in the dining area cleaning up the dishes and her first comment to me was “Is that sparkle I see? Were you wearing that yesterday??” Once we swapped engagement stories (she had gotten engaged over the summer), Lyn informed me that she loved news and she was going to tell everyone. She wasn’t kidding, everyone at the farm knew by lunch time! Obviously talking got me a little behind schedule, so once I got up to the horse area, all the horses were already in separate stalls, so we mixed a wheelbarrow full of feed and distributed it amongst them. Since McCafferty was a little slow for my liking the first day, I got Floss to ride for the second. Jaz’s horse from the first day, Bundy, was a little high-spirited and kept wanting to trot, so he got McCafferty from me for the second day. We had to saddle the horses ourselves, which I haven’t done since horse riding camp in elementary school, so I had to have a bit of help on looping the straps so it was tight enough. The second day of riding was much like the first, we didn’t go anywhere new, just off to double check the number of cattle in the paddock. Jaz and I both had sore bums from the first day of riding so it was good to take it slow and just enjoy the scenery. After lunch, we got to learn the art of whip cracking and lassoing. Thanks to my grandma and the whip she has for decoration, I had a head start on the whip cracking, and soon beat everyone with my cracks. Trevor even taught me a couple ways to wave the whip over your head to crack it. Lassoing however, I was not so good at. Actually, none of the people in our group were very good. I could lasso the traffic cone from maybe 20 feet away, but not with any sort of regularity.           After our afternoon lesson, we fed the chickens and milked the cows again before we had down time prior to dinner. One of the nice parts about the farm is that you don’t have to participate in any activities unless you want to, and in the rest of the time you could do whatever you wanted, which for me usually ended up being relaxing.

On our last day almost everyone decided they were done with horseback riding except for me and Rin (one of the Dutch guys), so after the horses were corralled, fed and saddled, the couple of us riding went off with Shane. After we headed off, Shane asked if we’d be interested in herding cattle that day, to which we of course said yes. We went a completely different direction than the previous days, over to one of the other cattle paddocks. Shane let us trot the horses on the way to the cows, and Floss decided that she really wanted to run and be in front of all the other horses. From then on for the rest of the day she kept pulling and trying to dash out in front of the group. When we got to the paddock where the first group of cattle were, luckily the majority of them were already congregated in a bunch. It took a little bit to get used to getting a cow to go the direction you wanted, but once we got the stragglers into the herd, it was fairly easy to keep them going one direction. My biggest problem was keeping Floss from running out into the front of the herd, because you are always supposed to stay just behind the cattle. Their vision is at a 45 degree angle from the front of their head, so Shane told us to try and stay just in their line of sight to keep them moving. Once you are in front of the cattle they don’t know which way to go and start to scatter and then you have to round them up again. Once we moved the cattle into the next paddock on the way to the roadway, Shane sent me off to ride the edge of the paddock to check that no cows got out of the bunch. Once Floss was given more rein she proceeded to try and run flat out straight into a tree. Twice. So after she scared me I gave her no slack, and then Shane let me have the job of leading the cattle so Floss could be out front.  My job was to go at a slow pace and keep the cattle from starting off at a run down the road to the paddock. After leading the first bunch of 50ish cattle into the paddock, we got to help bring in another bunch before it was time to head back in for lunch. The bus to drive us back to Rockhampton was supposed to leave at 4 pm, so the rest of the afternoon we just relaxed and enjoyed the farm. It was sad leaving the farm after spending time with all the people there, but we had some fabulous experiences during the couple of days we were at Myella.

Cuddly Creatures

After lots of long driving days, leaving Melbourne was a welcome relief knowing that we’d only be driving about two hours to Phillip Island, our stop for the day. Considering our last couple weeks, it was understandable that after getting to Phillip Island at noon, Jaz asked me in a rather stunned voice whether that was really all for the day. Upon arriving to the island (which is connected by a rather short bridge to the mainland), we made a quick detour to what’s becoming my new favorite location, the I. The I (as I call them) are the information centers in most touristy or larger Australian towns, and they provide lots of brochures and maps that I rely on to get around towns and find all the attractions. We were able to buy tickets there too for the most popular attractions on the island.

First on the list of the Phillip Island attractions was Panny’s Amazing World of Chocolate, which you know I wasn’t going to miss. It was a little overpriced, and after the size of the free sample of chocolate, I was starting to think I’d be a little disappointed. There was a neat hands-on explanation about the process of making chocolate, and then we saw several large chocolate sculptures. After that, there was the chocolate fountain, which pours massive amounts of chocolate every couple minutes, but my favorite part of that room was the robot that dispensed pieces of chocolate. Since the attraction was fairly empty, Jaz and I spent a good chunk of time just pressing the buttons to get free chocolate. I was also pretty proud of myself because they had a wall full of 36 jars of chocolate ingredients to guess, and I only got two wrong. And they totally didn’t count because we don’t have passion fruit at home. Then there was a machine that you could draw whatever you wanted in chocolate, it went down a conveyor belt, and you got a chocolate design to eat. So all in all, I think we ate enough chocolate to make the ticket price worthwhile.

Phillip Island is rather small, so the next attraction was only a 5 minute drive up the road to Churchill Island. I wouldn’t really call it an island since it seemed to be attached to the island by a boggy-like area. I can’t really say I enjoyed Churchill Island, it had a working heritage farm, but it was nothing compared to Greenfield Village. Moving on from that, we went to the Koala Conservation Center, our second time seeing koalas in Australia. This location was really cool because they had a boardwalk that went up around the trees at the koala height, so we were quite close to them. We even followed one koala as he ate in a tree, moved on to the next tree and then settled in a final tree with a mother and baby koala. Now all that’s left on my list for koalas is to hold one! It was hard not to want to pet them when they were that close because they looked so cuddly.

The Penguin Parade is by far the biggest attraction on Phillip Island, and while it’s not the only place in Australia where this occurs, it has one of the largest populations of little penguins that come ashore in one location. Little penguins, which stand just over a foot tall, fish during the day, and then in the evening come ashore to sleep. Because of their size, they come across the beach in waves of 20 to 30 penguins, so they gather out in the ocean until everyone is ready to return, usually right after the sun sets. I was a little disappointed with how commercialized it was, but in a location that gets almost 700 penguins a night, it makes sense that they’d have to build it up just to protect the penguins from tourists. We got there early enough to get a front row seat, and then froze in the chilly wind for the next hour and a half waiting for the penguins to arrive. They were well worth it though, because they were super cute to watch running across the beach to the grassy protected areas where they’ve built their nests. Sadly, pictures are not allowed, they don’t want flashes disturbing the penguins and having them be too scared to come into land. The coolest part happened after they landed though, because the conservation has built a boardwalk all down the path to the beach, so you could follow the penguins as they waddled to their nests. And since we were there at just the right time, we got to see cute, even littler fuzzy babies getting fed! I really wanted to take one home, because this size penguin would fit perfectly in my bathtub.

Our busy day on Phillip Island was followed by a rather long driving day to Lakes Entrance. The drive was very scenic though, because it runs through the Gippsland Lakes, the largest freshwater lakes system in Australia. We made a couple stops along 90 Mile Beach, which is the fourth longest beach in the world. I’m not sure if it was the fact that it wasn’t quite summer yet, but we were both shocked by the fact we didn’t see a single person up and down the whole beach. The wind was a little chilly, but it was still a nice day to be out for a walk on gorgeous beaches.

Next up on the driving agenda was Australia’s capital, Canberra. Even after knowing that it was only chosen as capital to stop Sydney and Melbourne’s rivalry, and was meticulously planned out specifically to be the capital city, I was expecting it to be a big city just like any of the others we had been too. Instead, the city of 300,000+ manages to feel even smaller because of the ridiculously wide streets, confusing layout (it’s done in concentric circles), and massive green spaces. Normally I’d like a lot of green, but it just wasn’t what I was expecting from a nation’s capital. We didn’t make it to Canberra quite as early as I had planned, and so only had time for one national landmark. Since I’m not a huge museum fan, we chose the Australian War Memorial. I was very impressed with the parts of it we saw, it’s been quite awhile since I’ve seen dioramas in a museum, but they had some very cool ones depicting battles from WWI. The World War II section was especially interesting for me because I tend to forget that Australia was bombed by the Japanese, and lived in fear of being outright invaded during that time. Finally, at closing time, there was a bagpiper that played a funeral song at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier next to the eternal flame which was quite moving.

Leaving Canberra was a bit sad, because it was the conclusion of our road trip across Australia, we only had two more short driving days to go to get to Sydney.

The Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road was built after World War I by the servicemen who came home as a memorial to those who died. The idea, besides just to create the memorial, was also to give the returning men employment. Built by over 3000 servicemen, the road travels 285 km between Torquay and Warrnambool through a very rugged and forested cliffside. We drove the road in reverse, starting in Warrnambool, for which I was grateful once we started the section between Apollo Bay and Torquay. The hilly and extremely curvy road hugs the cliff line, and I was very happy to be on the inside lane, especially because people like to pass our campervan since it doesn’t do so well on hills. Along the route, there are numerous picturesque stopping points, oftentimes having bronze signs commemorating events, with the most famous being the Twelve Apostles.

Bay of Islands

Bay of Martyrs

The Grotto

London Bridge

The rock formations used to connect here, and you could walk out on them until 1990 when the center collapsed into the ocean, stranding two people on the furthest rock.

The Arch

Loch Ard Gorge

Twelve Apostles

There used to be twelve main rock formations, but there are only seven still left standing. This was by far the most popular stop along the road, and the first place on our whole journey where we saw hordes of tourists (more than 2 or 3 was unusual for us).

Playing on the beach at Apollo Bay, our stop for the night

Cape Patton Lookout, why they put the wall so high I’m not sure, you couldn’t get a picture of anything standing on the ground!

Mt Defiance Lookout

The start of the Great Ocean Road, and a statue honoring “The Diggers”, the men who built the road