Snapshot of Kauai

Even before we left for East Africa last year, Jill and I knew where we’d be going on holiday next. I didn’t realise it at the time but the decision was sealed as soon as I found out that my lovely wife hadn’t seen Disney’s Lilo and Stitch. I thought the film was good and knew that Jill would absolutely love it, but couldn’t have guessed that she’d still be listening to the songs two years later, or that we’d end up flying over 5,000 miles from home, all because of that infectious Disney magic.

Unconventional selection process aside, Hawaii was supposed to be different…

After we’d decided on a destination, Jill and I thought it would be a nice change of pace to have a relaxing holiday where we laze in the sun, go to restaurants in the evening, and not much else. It was a nice idea while it lasted… Within a month of having decided what we’d be doing, the plan had slowly morphed from sun and relaxation to hiking, kayaking and scuba diving. As far as the ratio of activity days to relaxation days goes, this holiday went from by far our most lazy, to our most active! We’d be hiking for 10 out of 15 days, and kayaking or scuba diving for the rest.

This was one of the first beaches that we saw on Kauai. It looked great but the island got so much better.

On our second day, Jill and I began a three day hike on Kauai’s famous Na Pali coast. The region’s Kalalau Trail is frequently cited as one of the world’s best hikes, something that Jill and I both knew going in. I’d perched this hike atop a mountain of expectation that it couldn’t possibly have lived up to, but it did, and then kept soaring. Over the course of 12 miles, the undulating path alternated between inland forested areas, and exposed jaunts on the coastal cliffs, offering up stunning views whichever way we happened to look. It was without question, one of the best hikes that I’ve ever done.

This was where almost 9 hours of hiking got us; Kalalau Beach. Since it’s at the end of a 12 mile trail, and is only accessible by foot (or from the water), very few will ever see its untouched beauty. (Kauai is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands and it’s not going to be around forever). Jill and I camped here for 2 nights. When I arrived, I wasn’t looking forward to the walk back but after a full day here, I was so relaxed that I could barely remember it.

While we were at Kalalau Beach, this waterfall was our shower.

The hike back was fraught with danger. I later learned that this trail is ranked one of the ten most dangerous in the world. Based on my experience, it would seem for good reason.

The day after getting back from our hike, Jill and I took a helicopter flight over Kauai and witnessed unspeakable wonder. I’d already seen and marvelled at the Na Pali coast’s stunning formations during my three day hike there but I was blown away by how much more beautiful it looked from the air. It was already one of the most incredible things I’d ever seen, I didn’t think it was possible for it look any better. The verdant mountains and volcanic rock cliffs rose to majestic heights and the powerful coastal waves were clearly visible even from several thousand feet up. The water looked incredible, such vivid shades of blue. We flew inland, over Kalalau valley and navigated between the grass and vegetation covered mountains. There were dozens of wispy waterfalls, some over a thousand feet long. Our pilot weaved the helicopter through the valley highlighting its unique natural formations as we went. This for me, was the single most impressive part of the flight. It was beyond description. I was looking at it with my own eyes but still couldn’t believe that it was real. It was magnificent. Probably one of the only times in my life that my breath has literally been taken away. Picture the most stunning aerial shots from Jurassic Park and you’d have the language but not the poetry. After enough time has passed, and I’ve had a chance to process what I saw here, I have a feeling that I might come to think of it as the site of Earth’s greatest beauty.